Also known as: dry sieve · dry sift · kief screens · tamisage à sec

Dry Sift Screens

Stacked mesh screens that mechanically separate trichome heads from dried cannabis to produce kief and hashish.

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Dry sift is the oldest mechanical hash-making method and still one of the cleanest. Done well, it produces solventless concentrate from already-dried flower with no water, no electricity, and no chemicals. Done poorly, it produces green, plant-contaminated kief that smokes harshly. The skill is almost entirely in the cold, the agitation, and the screen sizes — not in fancy equipment. Most of the marketing around 'micron grades' oversells what's really a simple sorting process.

What dry sift screens are

Dry sift screens are fine woven meshes — usually stainless steel or monofilament polyester — sized in microns. When dried, cold cannabis is gently agitated over a screen, the mature trichome heads (roughly 70-120 microns across) fall through while leaves, stems, and large debris stay on top [1][2]. Stacking screens of decreasing aperture (for example 270 → 160 → 120 → 90 micron) sorts the output into grades, with the cleanest resin typically caught on the middle screens [3].

Unlike Ice Water Hash, dry sift uses no water; unlike Rosin, it uses no heat or pressure. It is purely mechanical separation, which is why traditional Moroccan and Lebanese hashish production has relied on it for centuries [4].

Why growers use it

It is not the highest-yielding method. Ice water hash and rosin typically pull more resin per gram of input. Dry sift's appeal is simplicity and the dry, crumbly product itself.

When to start

Flower must be fully dried — moisture content roughly 10-12% — and ideally lightly cured for at least a week. Wet trichomes smear and stick to the screen instead of falling through. Some processors freeze the material for 24-48 hours before sifting; cold makes the trichome heads more brittle and more likely to snap off cleanly at the stalk [1][3].

Don't sift fresh-frozen or undried flower with this method — that is what ice water hash is for. Don't sift very old, oxidized flower either; the heads will have degraded and shatter into dust that passes screens you don't want it to pass.

How to do it: step by step

1. Chill everything. Put your flower, your screens, and your work card in the freezer for at least an hour. A cold room (under 15°C / 60°F) helps. Trichomes separate cleanly when brittle [1].

2. Break material down loosely. Gentle hand-breaking is enough. Don't grind — grinding pulverizes plant matter that will then pass through screens and contaminate your sift.

3. Set up the screen stack. A common stack is a coarse top screen (220-270 micron) to catch plant debris, then 150-160 micron, then 120 micron, with a collection tray underneath. Single-screen boxes work too; you just won't grade the output.

4. Agitate gently. Place a thin layer of flower on the top screen. Lightly tap, brush, or rub with a soft card. The goal is to dislodge resin heads, not to push plant material through. Heavy pressure is the #1 mistake.

5. Work in short sessions. The first 30-60 seconds of agitation yields the cleanest, blondest sift (often called "first pull" or "full melt" grade). Subsequent passes are progressively greener and lower grade [3]. Stop and collect between passes.

6. Refine if desired. Cleaned sift can be "static-tech'd" — rubbed gently on a piece of glass or parchment under a fine screen so plant contaminants stick to the glass via static while heads roll off. This is how high-grade six-star dry sift is made [3].

7. Store cold and dark. Glass jar, no headspace, freezer or fridge. Light and oxygen degrade THC and terpenes [2].

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May 16, 2026
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