Recharge by Real Growers

What it is

Recharge is a powdered soil amendment sold by Real Growers. According to the manufacturer's label, it contains mycorrhizal fungi (endo species), Trichoderma species, several Bacillus species (including B. subtilis, B. licheniformis, B. megaterium, B. amyloliquefaciens), plus food sources for those microbes: kelp meal, fish meal, molasses, glacial rock dust, and humic/fulvic acids ^[1].

Functionally it sits in two product categories at once:

• A microbial inoculant — you're adding living (or dormant) fungi and bacteria to the root zone.
• A biostimulant / microbe food — kelp, humics and molasses feed both the added organisms and whatever's already living in your soil.

The individual ingredients are well-studied in agriculture. Mycorrhizal symbiosis with plant roots is one of the most established relationships in plant biology ^[2]. Trichoderma and Bacillus spp. are widely documented as plant-growth-promoting and as biocontrol agents against root pathogens ^[3][4]. What is not well-studied is this specific commercial blend in cannabis.

Why growers use it

Common reasons people reach for Recharge:

• Recovering stressed plants. After overfeeding, pH swings, transplant shock or a pest knockdown, growers drench with Recharge hoping to rebuild root-zone biology. The community evidence here is strong as folklore Anecdote, and there is reasonable mechanistic support that re-inoculating beneficial microbes can suppress opportunistic pathogens Weak / limited^[3].
• Replacing dead microbes in bottled-nutrient or coco grows. Synthetic salt nutrients, chloraminated tap water, and inert media mean very little soil life naturally develops. Adding a microbe pack at least seeds the substrate.
• Boosting living soil. In a no-till or true living organic (TLO) bed, Recharge functions as one of several inputs that keep biology cycling — alongside compost, worm castings, and cover crops.
• Convenience. It's shelf stable, mixes instantly, and doesn't require brewing like an Aerated Compost Tea.

Claims of large yield increases are not backed by controlled cannabis trials No data. Independent studies on mycorrhizae in cannabis have shown mixed results, with some finding no significant biomass or cannabinoid benefit under typical high-fertility cultivation ^[5].

When to start (and stop)

Start early. Mycorrhizal colonization works best when hyphae meet young, actively growing roots before the rhizosphere is dominated by other organisms ^[2]. Practical entry points:

• Seedling / clone transplant. First watering into the new pot is ideal.
• Veg. Every 1–2 weeks as a light drench.
• Flower. Continue every 1–2 weeks. Some growers ramp up during the stretch and early bulk.
• Late flower / flush. Optional to stop in the final 1–2 weeks if you also stop other inputs. There's no biological reason microbes themselves would hurt finished flower; the question is just whether you want any inputs going in.

Don't bother applying to bone-dry, hot, or fully anaerobic soil — the microbes need moisture and oxygen to do anything.

How to use it, step by step

The label rate is 1 teaspoon per gallon of water as a routine drench, or up to 1 tablespoon per gallon for stressed plants ^[1]. A simple, conservative protocol:

1. De-chlorinate your water. Chlorine and chloramine in municipal tap water can kill some of the added bacteria. Use rainwater, RO, well water, or let tap sit 24h (chlorine only — chloramine doesn't gas off; use a carbon filter or ascorbic acid).
2. Warm the water to roughly room temperature (18–24 °C / 65–75 °F). Cold water shocks roots and slows microbial activity.
3. Measure 1 tsp per gallon. Don't eyeball it — the powder is potent and overdosing wastes money without obvious benefit.
4. Stir to dissolve. It will look like dirty water with bits floating. That's normal.
5. Apply within ~30–60 minutes. Once rehydrated, microbes start metabolizing. Don't store mixed solution.
6. Water in normally. Apply to moist (not bone-dry) soil so the drench actually penetrates rather than channeling down the sides.
7. Repeat every 1–2 weeks. More often isn't shown to help.

In hydro or recirculating systems, Recharge is generally not recommended — the organic food sources can foul reservoirs and feed biofilm. Stick to root drench applications in soil, coco, or peat mixes.

Common mistakes

• Using chlorinated tap water. The fastest way to waste the bacterial fraction of the product.
• Mixing in advance and storing. Once wet, use it.
• Treating it as nutrients. Recharge has minimal NPK. It does not replace your base feed.
• Treating it as a cure-all. It will not fix root rot from chronic overwatering, lockout from a wrecked pH, or genetic problems. Several growers report Recharge 'fixing' issues that were actually just resolved by going back to a normal watering schedule Anecdote.
• Foliar spraying. Not its intended use. The endomycorrhizae do nothing on leaves; foliar Bacillus and Trichoderma applications are a different (and more risk-managed) practice Weak / limited.
• Overpaying vs. alternatives. If you already brew quality compost tea or run a healthy living soil, the marginal benefit is small. If you run sterile coco with synthetic salts, the benefit is more plausible.

Related techniques and products

• Aerated Compost Tea — homemade microbial brew, higher labor, near-zero cost if you have compost.
• Mycorrhizal Inoculants — single-purpose endo/ecto products like Great White or MycoApply, often cheaper per application.
• Living Soil — the broader framework Recharge slots into.
• Top-Dressing — dry amendment routine that pairs naturally with microbe drenches.
• Competing blends: Mammoth P (phosphorus-solubilizing bacteria), Tribus Original (three Bacillus strains), Photosynthesis Plus. Each has a different microbial profile and a different evidence base.

Sources

How this page was made