Also known as: EtOH extraction · alcohol extraction · QWET (quick-wash ethanol)

Ethanol Extraction Basics

A primer on using food-grade ethanol to pull cannabinoids and terpenes from cured cannabis flower and trim.

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Ethanol extraction is the most accessible solvent method for home processors: cheap, scalable, and capable of producing clean concentrates if you respect the chemistry. The catch is that ethanol is polar enough to also pull chlorophyll, waxes, and water-soluble plant junk if you let it. Short, cold washes minimize that. Forget marketing claims about 'full-spectrum purity' — every extraction method strips something. Ethanol's real advantage is safety relative to hydrocarbons, not magical retention of terpenes.

What it is

Ethanol extraction uses ethyl alcohol as a solvent to dissolve cannabinoids (THC, CBD, CBG, etc.) and many terpenes out of plant material. The resulting solution — called a 'miscella' in extraction literature [1] — is then filtered and the ethanol evaporated off, leaving a concentrated cannabis oil.

Ethanol is a polar protic solvent. That means it readily dissolves cannabinoids (which are moderately nonpolar) but, given enough time and warmth, will also dissolve polar compounds like chlorophyll, sugars, and water-soluble pigments Strong evidence[2]. The whole craft of ethanol extraction is controlling that selectivity, mostly through temperature and contact time.

The two dominant home/small-batch styles are:

Why growers use it

Compared to other solvents, ethanol has a specific niche:

What ethanol is not good for: preserving the full terpene profile of fresh flower. Volatile monoterpenes are partially lost during evaporation, and post-extraction terpene reintroduction is common in commercial product Strong evidence[2].

When to start

Start with material that is:

  1. Fully dried to roughly 10-12% moisture. Wet material drags water into the ethanol, reducing selectivity and complicating evaporation.
  2. Cured at least 2 weeks. Curing converts residual chlorophyll and lets harsh compounds break down Weak / limited.
  3. Decarboxylated, if you want active THC/CBD in the final oil. For tinctures and edibles, decarb the biomass at ~115 °C for 30-45 minutes before extraction, or decarb the final oil. Pre-extraction decarb is more uniform Strong evidence[6].

For concentrates intended for dabbing or vaping, skip decarb — you want THCA preserved and will activate it on use.

How to do it: step-by-step (QWET method)

This is the small-batch home process. Work in a well-ventilated area with no ignition sources. Ethanol vapor is flammable.

1. Freeze everything, separately, for 24 hours. Put your ground (coarse, not powder) flower in one sealed jar and your ethanol in another. Target -20 °C or colder. Cold ethanol is dramatically less efficient at dissolving chlorophyll and waxes, which is the entire point Strong evidence[2].

2. Combine and agitate. Pour cold ethanol over the cold biomass at roughly 8-10 mL ethanol per 1 g flower. Seal. Shake gently for 1-3 minutes. Longer is not better here.

3. Strain immediately. Pour through a fine mesh or coffee filter into a clean vessel. The miscella should be a light gold to amber color. Deep green means it warmed up or sat too long.

4. (Optional) Second wash. A second cold wash recovers another ~10-15% of cannabinoids but is dirtier. Keep it separate from the first wash if quality matters.

5. Filter again. Run the miscella through a finer filter (Buchner funnel with filter paper, or a syringe filter for small batches) to remove fine particulates.

6. Evaporate the ethanol. Options, from best to worst:

7. Purge residual solvent. Finish in a vacuum oven at ~35-40 °C, or a low-heat purge, until no ethanol smell remains. Residual ethanol limits for inhaled cannabis products are typically 5,000 ppm under USP <467> and most state cannabis regulations [8].

Common mistakes

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Jun 5, 2026
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Jun 5, 2026
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